Tips on buying a shell or top for your new truck
89So you finally got that new truck you've been wanting, but now that it's sitting safely in your driveway, it looks naked; you're considering a shell or a top, maybe even a hard lid-type cover, but there are so many options, where do you begin? I spent many years selling truck accessories, but no longer, so I will try to help by offering this information.
First thing you want to ask yourself is how do you plan on using your new truck, and if you put a top on the truck bed, will you still be able to use the truck in the same way. If the answer is yes, meaning a lumber rack and/or tool boxes aren't part of your vision, then you're ready to start looking at tops.
Removable-first question to ask
So you want a shell, or even a lid, also known as a hard tonneau cover, but you want to be able to remove it without too much trouble for that occasional large load, after all, what good is having a truck if you can't use it like a truck.
The good news is, many truck top manufacturers know that truck owners want the option to be able to remove a shell or lid. Here are some manufactures to consider:
For a good shell that's easy to remove, consider a SnugTop, because it uses a J-hook style installation that works like a clamp-no drilling. The other benefit with this brand is their tops are very custom fit, meaning the base rails of the shell are a contoured fit, not flat, so you will actually feel the shell fit in place when you set it on the bed. Their tops also have a bulb rubber seal built-in along the base rail, meaning there is no seal to have to re-do when you remove and reinstall the shell. A Leer brand top has a rubber seal and J-hooks as well, although their J-hooks are a little different. Most manufactures require a foam tape to be installed along the base rails to seal the shell to the bed. If that tape is not replaced when the shell is removed, it will leak after you reinstall it. Either one of these brands of shells will weigh between 150 to 200 lbs, depending on how large your truck is. A good tip to remember if you plan on removing a shell after you buy it is to ask the dealer for the boards that the shell is shipped with, that way if you do remove it, you can reuse those boards when you set it on the ground for storage. These boards typically get tossed out or recycled, so the dealer should not have a problem just giving them to you. Remember too that a lot of truck shells now have what they call wrap-rails-for a nice custom-fit look, and they can easily be damaged, so having these shipping boards really helps.
Hard lid covers, also referred to as tonneau covers, are not as easy to remove as you might think. A hard, fiberglass, painted-to-match lid is actually quite heavy, and depending on the brand or style, can be a little tricky to take on and off. Believe it or not, something such as a basic SnugTop hard tonneau-which they call their TC lid-or Tonneau Cover-weighs almost as much as some shells do. They have a very thick honey-comb construction, and despite what the company says, they're heavy. Painted to match Leer covers are about the same in weight. Another good painted fiberglass lid brand is the Gaylord cover, and their mounting systems have a lot of flexibility for fine adjustments. This will make sense when you re-install a lid, since the real trick is for it to be able to open and shut with ease, and for this reason, I like to stay away from these shut-and-lock latching systems. These latching systems work on the idea that your truck bed is now like a big trunk-use a key to open it, then slam it shut to lock it. Many of the popular brands operate this way, and they all say they work great, but I have sold and installed many lids, and on average, we would replace 2 to 3 Snuglid SL lid locks every week. The Snuglid TC lid, and the Gaylord basic lid, use the standard lock that turns and swings a cam under a fixed plate to lock it in place. This is really the best way to go. It's not that fancy, but there are no headaches later on. Back in the late 90's, most hard lids used these simple locks, and they hardly ever had problems. Remember too that all of the lids I described are clamped on-no drilling, but that does not mean they are easy to remove, it simply means less holes in your bed.
Other lids that are easy to remove-probably the easiest-are the non-painted, black hard covers, such as the Undercover brand. They weigh less than half that of the painted fiberglass covers, but they are also just as strong. They tend to fit great and are very easy to install. I found that their cover on the new Tacoma beds were extremely simple to install. Professional installers can get them on in about 15 minutes or less. It's no surprise then that removing these and re-installing them is just as simple. Since they weigh about 50 lbs., less for the extra short mini-truck beds-and they aren't painted, so taking it off and propping it against a wall in your garage takes about ten minutes and you won't have to worry about scratching it. True, these covers don't look as good as the painted ones, but they are very functional, secure and strong. Older style covers, like the old Protecto Tops, were very flimsy, and could be broken in half like snapping thin plywood. The newer Undercover lids are also very reasonable in price, and don't pay too much for labor if you get one of these installed, because believe me, even someone who is mildly handy could put one of these on by themselves.
You may also consider a rolling cover. They roll up out of your way into a canister in the front of the bed, and you don't have to remove it. But remember, more moving parts means more that can go wrong over time. It may work great when you first get it, but give it a year or two and it may need some occasional adjusting-or sometimes a lot of regular adjusting. Roll covers also take up bed space, and they are notorious for leaking, that's why most of them come with drain tubes. A good, secure cover is the Pace Edwards Full Metal roll cover. It costs almost as much as a shell, but they are designed well, and have few problems.
Finding the right shell
There are a lot of options, a lot of brands, different styles-where do you begin? First thing you might want to think about is style. What do you want your truck to look like? Good shells, that is the higher-end models, will cost well over $2000 at the end of the day, so before you even start looking, keep that in mind. Even when there are special sales, a simple, color-matched fiberglass shell can cost between $1200 and $1400-depending on the brand. Shells are not what they used to be, which were gel-coated (not painted) plastic pieces of garbage that fit lousy, and spent more time on the side of the freeway then on the bed of your truck. Plastic shells are now non-existent and most fiberglass tops are clear coat enamel paint-just like your truck. I know they seem expensive, but if you just spent more than $35,000 on a brand new truck, you should put something on it that is comparable in quality to the truck itself. After all, you wouldn't buy a $5 tie for a $1,000 designer suit.
Expensive styles of tops usually have the all-glass doors with hidden or semi-hidden hinges-for that realistic SUV look. SnugTop's models that have this all glass, frameless rear door are the XV (eXtra Vision) or the Super Sport models. It's all about the look, nothing more, and going with that SUV look may be the coolest, but remember that if and probably when you do break that back door, it's expensive. Trust me, a lot of people break the back door on their shells. Backing into the garage with the door up is the most common scenario. Same goes with Leer's popular 100XL model. Remember that the glass in these doors is tempered safety glass, but not laminated like a windshield, so all it takes is one small rock, and all that glass will shatter into very small pieces. Aluminum framed doors on the other hand are much cheaper to replace-sometimes half the cost for the part. Most basic fiberglass shells use the aluminum framed rear doors. SnugTop calls their basic top the Cab High-meaning it is level in height with that of the cab of the truck., Leer's is called the 100R. Of course all of these tops I just described are cab level in height.
These two types of tops are the most popular, and I highly, highly recommend looking at actual tops at an accessory dealer so you can see the quality difference in the parts they use. SnugTop's shells tend to cost more than any other brand, but that's mostly because they use more expensive parts-it's arguable if that means those parts are better, but they look and fell better, like sturdier latches and metal, not plastic hinges. SnugTop shells also have thicker fiberglass construction, which may mean nothing unless you want to mount a rack on top of it or if you have an off road truck and actually use it that way and subject the bed to a lot of flexing.
There are of course many other models, most of which involve extra height-for the more actual camping enthusiast or just a need for more headroom and space. Leer has several taller models, the model 122 being the tallest, but I personally think they look ugly. SnugTop has a very smooth-line taller top called the High Liner, but its availability is sometimes limited as most people want the clean look of a cab high top.
Brand recognition
Notice I am mainly talking about SnugTop and Leer here. That's because these are the two most widely known and popular brands on the market today. There are other more obscure brands, but be careful what you buy. I have seen manufacturers come and go, and good luck getting parts or service for these tops once the company goes under. SnugTop and Leer have been around for a while. Century is a decent brand, and it's owned by Leer so it's basically a cheap Leer. Glasstite use to be a really good brand, then they sold out to different corporate owners a few years ago and the service went down the tubes. A.R.E. is another brand, and they have a very distinct model of top where the tailgate of the truck bed is removed, making it a full walk-in rear door, but be careful with this one, it's prone to many potential problems. The fit from A.R.E. isn't that great either.
Options
Yes, truck caps or shells have many optional features. The most common is the inside carpet lining. Most shells have this, that is to say most dealers will stock tops with this option and many models actually come with this option included. Is carpet necessary? No, not really, it just looks much better than the raw fiberglass, and it helps to insulate the shell better. The carpet is like speaker box carpet, and it's indoor/outdoor grade, so it won't get mildewed if it gets wet.
The front of a top usually has a sliding window, so the inside of the now covered bed can be accessed from the truck's rear cab window-provided your truck has a rear sliding window. Solid windows are usually standard, but you would only want that if your rear cab window is solid as well. An option for that front sliding window in the shell is to have one with the capability to fold down, or in the case of Leer, it can be removed. Why is this a good option? Because cleaning the rear cab window once a shell is installed becomes quite a chore without it. The gap between the truck bed and cab is very tight, especially now since trucks have more streamlined designs, and if you want a nice custom look, the shell has to fit this way. Fold down glass is also available with solid windows as well, for the same reason.
Don't get a boot. This option is still offered, but I highly, highly recommend not getting it. They leak, they rub off all your paint, they don't last and the list goes on. With folding front sliders now available, they really aren't necessary.
Racks on top of shells are also common options. The best thing to do is to order the shell with the tracks pre-installed. Either Thule or Yakima tracks are cross-compatible, and even if you're not sure what specific type of rack you want, you at least now have the option to install the towers and bars on the tracks after you get the shell. You may even have these parts already and want to transfer that system to the shell. Tracks also give you the option to vary the spread between the bars. They can typically hold about 165lbs. I only know of one shell manufacturer that offers the option to have the roof made thicker to accommodate extra weight, and that's SnugTop. They call it the sportsman package, and for a price, they will make the roof thicker as well as reinforce all of the critical stress points. Tops with this option can carry up to 500 lbs, which is perfect for a small aluminum boat. For most this option is probably overkill.
Buying used
You can get a really great deal buying a used shell if you know what to look for. I had a customer once who not only got the exact fit, but he found a used shell that was the same color, and it wasn't a common color either. He bought the shell used for $500, and new, the same shell would have cost $1,500. The key is to know what fits what. Full size Chevy beds for example-1988 will fit up to 1998, and some 99s. 2000 up to 2006 Chevy beds are also the same, despite the body style changes. The 2007 model is different than all of them. Simply measuring the bed though will not always be enough to know if the used shell you're looking to buy will fit. This is because most truck beds are now tapered, meaning the bed is wider in the front and narrower in the back. Chevy started doing this in 88, Ford in 97 and Dodge in 94. The new full size Dodge truck beds are so tapered in fact that lumber racks on these beds don't seem to fit until you push the rack all the way forward. Setting the shell on the bed is the best way to determine if it will fit. Remember that even if the shell appears to fit, if the rear door doesn't open and shut right, or lock, what's the point of even having the shell on the bed. Some dealers also offer close-out shells, because truck bed fits have gone through so many changes over the last five or six years, they may still have a top in inventory that they would love to get rid of. I once sold a shell to a guy that only fit a 2003-04 F150 crew cab with the extra short bed, and it was even in is color, and he got it for almost $800 less than if he had ordered it, and the shell was technically brand new.
Remember to always ask about warranties and paint finish for those really good deals you see advertised. Sometimes shells will be offered super cheap, but they may only come with a one year paint warranty-where most have a lifetime warranty. Good luck, and I hope this info helps.
SnugTop mounting system
Folding front slider option
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Cal: Probably the only thing you can do to find a used part is check the Craig's List auto parts section-search on shell. Honestly though it will be like finding a needle in a haystack, but you never know, you could get lucky. Remember that the old Mitsubishi truck is going to be similar in dimension to other mini-sized pickups, so if someone has a Leer 122 on a Toyota, Nissan, S-10, Ranger etc., it may work. $600 for a door sounds high, maybe you have another local Leer dealer with a better price? Hope this helps.
Are you sure Yakima and Thule tracks are cross compatible?
Kevin: Yes, I know that SnugTop uses Yakima tracks, and the shop I worked at only sold Thule racks and accessories, so whenever we sold a SnugTop with the Yakima tracks installed at the factory, the Thule towers slide into those tracks with no problems at all. I don't thik Yakima or Thule advertise that fact, but I know this is accurate. A good place for info on all things Yakima or Thule is a shop called Rack'n'Road. They have a few locations here in California and the West Coast, and I'm pretty sure they have an 800 number so feel free to call them and confirm this fact.
I stumbled upon this guide. Great info! I'm looking to get the Snuglid SL for an 07 Tacoma with long bed. The local installer says the SL lock locks better, more secure. Whereas the basic snuglid with the two cam locks at both corners are less secure, cumbersome to lock/unlock. Can you elaborate on what you wrote regarding the locking systems?
You mentioned that you used to change out the latch lock systems quite often. Does it still ring true with today's snugtop lids? I don't want to deal with the locking system especially if I'm paying $1600 for the SL. I'm on Oahu, Hawaii and I think they are the only dealer.
@Stevo- sorry I have not been active that much with my Hubs, need to write more. The TC Snuglid-the one with the two cam locks, I think, is arguably more secure, because the cam only has to make a quarter turn and if installed nice and tight, it locks down really well. The single rotary lock of the SL lid requires that both ends of the latch catch as the lid is closed, well this can go out of adjustment as the bed flexes with normal use. As long as you understand how the lathces work and check them, and you don't do a lot of rough road driving, it should be fine. The dealer only wants to sell you the more expensive lid, and the SL lid is just cooler because slamming it shut and not having to use the key to lock it is just easier to do.
i have a 1987 el camino, and looking for a protecto cover , any idea's
@luis- I know the guy who's brother started that company-Protecto Top- and I think they still make those, but he is in the process of shutting everything down. You can try searching the auto parts section on Craig's List for something, or you can try a shop that sells Gaylord, because they still make tonneau covers for those old El Caminos-that might be your best bet. Hope this helps.
Hey Tom, Thanks for the nice article. I have an '87 Toyota truck with an equally old Wagonmaster cap. I replaced the broken door glass myself with plexiglass a few years ago because when I called to find replacement tempered glass, I was told that parts are no longer available for this cap. Now, the door lock has a problem; the latch is fine, but the lock is very difficult to turn, almost key-breaking difficult. Also, even after I've managed to turn the key fully to unlock it, I have to play with the handle a few minutes to get it to turn. I've squirted graphite lubricant in the keyhole a few times, but it has done no good. If it were easy and cheap to replace, I wouldn't worry, but the handle is riveted in, and the latch rods may also be attached to the handle permanently, or in some special, difficult-to-duplicate way (can't tell for sure). My question: is there anything I can do to get this lock working right again? If not, what is the best approach to this problem?
@Scotty- well, the door handle itself should be fairly standard, and you're right, sometimes the handle is riveted to the frame of the door-but those rods usually aren't. You'll see what I mean when you take it apart. There are two basic types of door handles-round base and square base. These are still used so a camper shell lot should have them or be able to get them. Sometimes they are 'blind mount'-meaning you see no holes from the outside, and you need that specific handle. But even rod assemblies can be bought and replaced, they just need to be cut to length. Where it gets a little sticky is trying to re-rivet this hardware without breaking glass, but in your case, the glass was already broke so you should be fine. The few shell mfgrs that have specific handles are Snugtop and ARE, and some others, but what you have is probably fairly standard. Hope this helps!
Hello,
My truck is an 08 GMC Sierra with an 8' bed. Will the following 8' Leer Hi Rise cap for 88-99 Chevrolet/GMC pickups fit my truck?
Thanks...
@Sean-Unless your truck is the 'classic' body style, than no, it shouldn't fit-however, it may sit on the bed, but it just won't exactly fit right. The body style changes for fullsize GM trucks are as follows: 73 to 87, in 1988 the bodystyle changed to a 'tapered' bed, so it became wider in the front than the rear-this is a major problem for shells fitting. If the truck is an 1988 longbed dually, it's the 87 style. Then it changed in 99, but some are new and some are old for those fringe years depending on the production dates. The trucks changed again in 07, except for the heavy duty(2500, 3500)which are all now the new style. If it isn't, they refer to it as the classic body. So technically that shell shouldn't fit, but if it has a flat rail, it might 'kind of' fit. Hope this helps, feel free to ask me any other questions.
It's new body style. I'm not worried about it looking like a custom fit one. I just don't want it to fall off because I cannot clamp it correctly.
It's new body style. I'm not worried about it looking like a custom fit one. I just don't want it to fall off because I cannot clamp it correctly. What do you think?
-Sean: You said the Leer top was 88 to 99, which would be two generations past, so I'm not exactly sure how that might fit. If the shell is that old, it may have a flat rail, not 'wrapped' which some of the newer shells have to contur the new style body lines-that wouldn't fit for sure, but if it's flat, it will probably sit on the rails ok. I've never tried it with a shell but I can tell you that a lumber rack for an 89, 8'bed GM will fit the new bed, so the general dimensions have stayed the same. Try setting it on there. I'm used to using a forklift, so I'm a little spoiled with that.
Tom,
On my commercial snugtop I have a center popup t handle on the rear glass. The pin in the tumbler that releases the lock sheared off.
Do you know where to purchase/what the part number is for the popup snugtop T handle used on the rear glass?
@Darren -That pop-out handle is a standard Snugtop part-they use it on their non-commercial shells as well. I called an old friend that sells this stuff-go to any Snugtop dealer, you can call them to find out who that would be, the part number you need is: 713125. Hope this helps :)
Thank you for the comments. They are appreciated and make me feel more confident in spending a little extra money on the SnugTop, which I was already planning on doing. A lot of your comments on the options were exactly what the salesperson at the dealer advised, so it just reinforces my confidence in doing business with them.
Thank you
Your info is really helpful. I just got a 1988 Toyota truck, a 1 ton with low miles. I want to get a shell but am just now beginning to do my research since I have no clue what to get and have never had a shell. Any suggestions?
@ Rebecca any Toyota older than 1989 can either be standard or a little different. One thing to look at is if the bed rails roll to the outside, they call this a 'Japanese' bed. Older import trucks are like this. Basically, can you grab the bed rail from the outside of the bed, or the inside? If it is NOT a Japanese bed, then you're in luck. Snugtop does still have a mold for the shortbed Toyota, but it aint cheap. You have a 1 ton, so it might be the longer bed. If it is, there's not too much you can get aside from used. I don't know what part of the country you live, but a good top for unique, older trucks is one made by Access Manufacturing, which makes a shell called the Tradesman. Yes, these are technically commercial shells-made of aircraft aluminum-but a cab level model actually doesn't look very commercial. They will make a top for just about anything-if a local dealer is available of course. It's the same company that made the popular Six Pack and Bac Pack tops. Because of the older year though, your options will be limited. This doesn't rule out used, I see used tops on Craig's List all the time. Toyota models from 1984, all the way up to 1994 are generally the same, and some 1995s, later that year, 1995 1/2- they started making the Tacoma-it's different. Just remember, take measurements of your bed, and know the years that will be compatible. If someone tells you the shell on their 2000 Tacoma will fit, don't trust that they know, because it probably won't. Also remember that a shell for an extended cab Toyota has more of a slopped front angle to it. This is a problem if you try to fit that to a standard cab. It will hit the top of the roof of the cab. I have seen used old Snugtops for these trucks on CL for really cheap, which is ideal because the hull of the shell will last a long time, may need new windows, but those can be replaced. My shop once sent out an old Snugtop-whose mold no longer exists-to the factory and had it re-painted, and new windows put in, basically a new top, and it was just a little cheaper than a new one. Hope this helps.
I just bought a 2011 Tacoma 4 door long bed. I ended up getting a SnugTop cap but I don't like the way it hangs over the edges of the truck bed. It looks like the cap is too big for my truck. Do you know if SnugTop makes a cap that sits flush with the bed? Or maybe you can recommend another brand that has the look I'm going for?
@ Travis I don't know which model you have-possibly the Supersport or XV-but these have what's called wrap rails-obviously you don't like that. I think their cab high model does not have wrapped rails like this. The dealer should be able to find out from the manufacturer if a shell has this, just ask, does this mold wrap the rails-if they don't know, they can call the factory and ask. I did have a case with Snugtop on a Tacoma where the rails wrapped over too much-looked too wide, you could fit two fingers in the gap that hanged over the side, so we swapped it out for another one I had on my lot, and it fit much better-hardly any gap at all. I thought it was very strange at the time, but this might be the case with your top. See if the dealer you got it from would be willing to just set another similar top they may have in stock on their lot on your bed and see if it fits different. If it does, you may be able to ask them for a new top or make some kind of deal because it shouldn't fit that way.
Hey Tom,
Great article. Good to see the break down of the different components of a good truck cap or shell.
Speaking of which is there a good resource you can recommend for which year trucks are the same? I have a 2005 single cab std bed tacoma and am looking for a shell but cant work out which will be compatible. Found a 1996 shell but have yet to try it out.
Anyway, thanks for the article.
Regards,
R
@ Ryan 2005 is what I call a 'fringe' year for a truck. It was the first year that the Tacoma changed body style since it was introduced in 1995. Prior to that, those trucks were just Toyotas, or 'downsize' since there were the T-100 trucks, which later became the Tundra. If your bed is composite, ie, it's black plastic, then you have the current style bed. You'll know this because the new or current bed is actually like a plastic insert, it's not metal, only the rear pillars are actually metal. If this is what you have, any shell that's on a 2005 to current year will fit. There isn't much difference between cabs, in other words, the extended cabs, crew cabs-or double cab-and standard cab trucks with the longer bed will all be compatible, unless the top is a Snugtop(shell, not the hard lid tonneau)the shells have specific molds for the standard cabs. I could be wrong, but I think Leer only has one mold for that length bed. There really is no good single source to know this stuff. I know it because I've worked in the industry a while, I've thought of putting together a resource. Feel free to ask me any other questions.
Great info!
For the Snugtop XV truck cap, do you prefer the Pro-Lock over the pop-out lock?
I do a lot of off-road driving, but mostly on Forest Service or BLM lands - nothing crazy. Is the extra strength/reinforced stress points offered in the sportsman package useful in this case?
Sorry, I forgot some other questions about the Snugtop XV:
What kind of rubber seals, between the truck bed and truck cap, are used for Snugtop caps? Do you think the rubber seals at the following website would be better: http://extrudedsolutions.com/products.htm
Your picture shows a grey BedRug with a grey headliner, but they seem to be different colors of grey -- does this clash when you are looking at it in person? Just wondering if maybe a black headliner with a grey Bedrug would look okay?
@ Justin Yes, the sportsman package is worth it if you do a lot of 'rough' road driving. You don't have to be doing the Top Truck Challenge to subject your bed to a lot of flexing. If the road isn't paved, then you do a lot of off-road driving. It's been a couple years since I sold a Snugtop-I know what the pop-out lock is, not sure about the pro-lock. It's probably the semi-flush mount one with the rotary latches-slams shut. I already mentioned why I don't like those locks-if you watch them and adjust them, they're ok, but they do need occasional adjustments and tweaking, otherwise the door will just pop open or not open altogether. The rubber seals that come with a Snugtop are fine-you don't need to change them. They actually use good rubber. Regarding the carpet color-if you get the black headliner, it will match the Bedrug-they are the same carpet actually. Your Snugtop dealer should really know this. Hardly any of those shells use the older grey or charcoal color. They used to have just charcoal and a light gray or tan or blue, now I think all they have is tan, charcoal and black. When the black carpet came out, the fact that it was the same color as the Bedrug is why we would stock all the shells with that color. Hope this helps!
Thanks a lot! I'll be talking with a dealer, but I wanted to do some homework first. :) I will go with the sportsman package based on what you said.
I wished SnugTop had more detail on their website, but there seems to be 2 or maybe 3 locking systems:
Rotary Latch Locking System:
http://www.snugtop.com/products/Features_Options/R
Patented Flush Pop-Out Lock:
http://www.snugtop.com/products/Features_Options/P
Pro-Lock -- the SnugTop picture below has info about this lock:
http://www.snugtop.com/products/Features_Options/P
I heard about problems with the pop-out lock (freezing up, falling apart), so I'm thinking about going with the Pro-Lock -- this is also what they use on the Hummer H3 lid.
Are you familiar with the Pro-Lock, and if so, any negative thoughts about it?
Thanks a lot!
The pro-lock must be new, but is most likely an upgrade from their former flushmount lock-the one that didn't pop-out. The old pop-out lock is good, and I think reliable. The reason some people have problems with them overtime is because they leave them popped out and allow lots of dirt, roadgrime and dust to get into the mechanism and don't lube it. If it wasn't good, they wouldn't have been using them for the last 20 years. This new pro-lock is probably not much different than what they were using on most all-glass doors, but with an actual handle on it, which the old one didn't have. Either way, I'm still not a big fan of rotary latches. Again-remember that the XV and SS shells have the all glass doors, and if you break them-they are not cheap to replace.
Thanks again - I'll talk with a dealer to try to get more info about the Pro-Lock.
Yeah, I've read about how costly rear-glass replacement can be ($500+) if it breaks. That's one thing I definitely worry about. I'm also considering a product like softtopper.com which would cost about $700-$800, so much cheaper, but also much uglier. It's a tough decision...
Have you seen many cases of broken glass? Do you why they broke?
Camper shell rear doors break a lot. The most common thing people do is back up into their garage with the door up. Sometimes aluminum framed doors can get bent out of shape, and not break-never the case with the all-glass frameless doors. The glass itself can be very fragile, because it's tempered safety glass, one small rock and it will shatter into a million pieces. The other common scenario is when the weekly gardeners kick up a small rock with a weed whacker and hit the glass. There is one insurance company that actually has camper top coverage, and a nice $100 to $150 deductible for broken glass. Can't think of who it is, but I ran across it one time.
doh... "break a lot" is scary.
Thanks a lot for all your help! I'll need to think about this and talk to my insurance company.
@Justin -I say break a lot because we seemed to be replacing a lot of doors, but just because that seems like a lot to me, doesn't mean it's a lot for an individual. Lets just say it is a common repair, after all, it's really the only major moving part on a camper shell.
Thanks Tom....
I have State Farm and they said they would cover glass breakage on a truck cap, but they don't have a lower deductible for "glass replacement", so you'd have to pay whatever your normal deductible is on the policy. (Of course, then they'd probably raise your rates during your next renewel....)
Appreciate your advice!
I deal mostly with bed liners so it was nice to be educated on shells. You seem to know your stuff. Thanks for the breakdown of info, appreciate it!
Thanks Sarah. I have since started selling accessories again-not tops though. I do still try to advise people on what to buy and where to get it. I'm trying to now learn lift kits and wheels and tires, which is new and a bit much to take in.
Thanks for this post! I purchased a 2007 Tundra and am expecting to buy a SnugTop. We have a German Shephard and we'd like her to be comfortable in the back. You recommend against getting a boot because they leak and wear off the paint. But I've heard they are much quieter than the alternative of having both pickup rear window and the front window of the shell open. I am hoping that our dog can stick her head through the window and say hi!! Any thoughts on this? Thanks!!
@Dirk-I can't stress enough how much a boot is a BAD idea. Today's trucks are not like they used to be. The back cabs and beds are not just square boxes and neither are the shells. They are very custom, contured fits, especially with a SnugTop. If you get a sliding window-and you should get the fold down kind-the gap between the shell and the cab will be so narrow that you can barely fit your hand in it, so road noise won't be that bad at all. Boots actually make their own special noises-they tend to squeek. As far as your Shepard being able to poke her head in and give you sloppy wet kiss with a sliding window, just remember she has to be able to do that through the opening of the CAB window now, and as I recall, the opening on a Tacoma cab slider is not that big, so even if a sliding window on the shell is a huge opening, the cab window on the truck may not be. Another thing to remember about boots-IF you did get one and after having it for a year you realize a lot of water leaks in, you're stuck with it. You cannot change a boot over to a slider becuse the manufacture has to cut the whole for a boot larger than they do for a slider, so there's no going back.
Thanks for your input Tom. I just ordered the Snugtop Rebel without the boot, and with the fold-down window with a slider. Leaks aren't an option where I'll be driving this truck (Ohio). I was liking the Xtra Vision or SuperSport's looks but chose the Rebel since it has flat side windows which should provide a better seal to the shell and make it less likely to leak (compared to here in SoCal) especially after a few summers and winters there. Thanks again.
tom, you are doing a wonderful job at keeping the public inform of our product. way to go,,,,,,,.
would a cap that fits a 2000 dodge dakota fit onto a 2005 dakota?
The Dodge Dakota changed body styles in 2005, so technically, it shouldn't fit. I don't think I ever tried to fit the previous generation Dakota shell on the newer body style, so the best thing to do is measure. Be sure to measure the front AND the back(width) to see if one might fit the other. I'm sorry to say I don't think they will, might be close though.
Hi Tom. I have a 2005 tacoma with a snug top camper that has the one lock in the middle of the window down along the bottom and this lock controls the two levered hooks on either side of the window. one hook is no longer hooking and this is making the key pretty hard to operate. i live in the tropics where there is lots of humidity and the majority of the roads i live on are dust. any suggestions? thanks in advance for your help.
@kelly -If there is dirt and dust, first try to clean and lube the hardware. That lock should have an adjusting screw or nut on the rod(there are threads on the end of the rod) connecting to each rotary latch, so there should be two of them total, one on each side. Turning that nut will affect the latch on each end. When you push down one of the rotary latches manually with the door up, you should hear two clicks to know it's working properly, if it doesn't, you need to adjust it. Turning the handle in the middle should release it. Most of the time, this works. These nuts do need to be adjusted from time to time.
Will a 2001 f350 topper fit a 2005Chevy f250
@Bruce -Are we talking long bed or short bed? Ford F350/250 is called the Superduty, and Ford started making that truck in 1999, and not much has changed with the bed dimensions to the current year. Chevy would be a 2500, and that body is now called the 'classic' body, which changed after 2007-for the heavy duty models. Is a Ford shell compatible with a Chevy bed? I doubt it if it's a fiberglass top. Most fiberglass tops for Superdutys have molded rear corners, and that would be an issue if you put that on a Chevy bed. If it's a flat railed shell, like a commercial-type ARE, Leer, old Gem Top, etc., it might work. I know I've put a newer Ford shell on an older Chevy bed, not the greatest fit, like I've said before, measure the front, and the rear width of the beds to get a better idea if they will fit.
I'm sorry f350 2001 to a f250 both ford r they the same beds
Both short beds 7 ft
So, the Superduty came out in 99 like I said, before that they were just F250/F350's. In 2008, Ford added this step in the tailgate-some trucks never got these, like commercial fleet trucks, but if you were taking a shell off a 2001 and putting it on a 2009 for example, the tailgate on the newer truck flares out for that tailgate step, and the 2001 shell won't take that into account, i.e., the door won't shut right. Everything else should be the same. So if you're taking a 2001 shell and putting it on a 2005 truck-both Superduty Ford shortbeds, yes, they are identical.
Thanks for the info, Tom.
Much appreciated.
Would you happen to know if a cap from a '99 Tacoma extended cab would fit a '12 access cab? I know the cab styles changed, but I'm not sure about the bed.
@Marbry Well, technically the beds are very close to being the same dimensions, however in 2005, the Tacoma radically changed the bed, and by that I mean they are all now composite beds-they are not sheet metal, except for the outer skin. Why does that matter? the bed rails on the new Tacomas are not only wider, but most shell manufacturers make the tops to mold over those plastic rails, and-most importantly-shells on the new Tacomas must utilize that inside metal track rail-there really is no other way to mount it. Sadly, I don't think a shell from a 99 would work on a new Tacoma, and the Access Cab is essentially an extended cab-they only come in one bed length. What you need is one made for 2005 to current year, don't listen to what the seller might tell you. The only thing from an older bed that may work with a newer Tacoma composite bed is a rubber bed mat. I hope this helps.
HEY. I have a 1985 chevy pickup and was wondering if a canopy from a 1993 chevy pickup would fit? I know itll get narrower towards the end. I just wanna know if itll work at all
@Jay, in 1988, the GM beds became tapered, so the 85 bed is the same width in the front as it is in the back, not so for the 93. Will it still fit?-no, I don't think it will, but here's the good news, your 85 Chevy bed-if we're talking fullsize truck here, NOT the S-10-is the same dimensions as the 1980 to 1996 Ford F150/250, so, finding a used shell to fit it shouldn't be too difficult. Ford didn't start tapering the beds until 97. Same goes for lumber racks for that truck. Hope this helps :)
@ Tom. Ya Thx for the info
i have 2 leer shells 100r-15ff 1389418 and 1176159 100xu-65ff. what do they fit
@daryl, I would not know that, if those are serial numbers. You would have to contact Leer manufacturing, either directly or through an authorized Leer dealer. If you call your local dealer though, they will probably tell you to call Leer.
will a guidon fiber glass top off of a 97-03 f-150, cover fit a 06 gmc
@chance -Didn't know Guidon made anything other than hardtops for Jeeps and those little SUVs. Those beds are quite different, more importantly you need to know exactly what that top was made for. Is it a shell with windows or a hard tonneau? Most shells for a 97 to 03 F150 bed are made to wrap over those factory plastic bed caps. The only things I have seen fit were commercial-type shells with flat rails. It's hard to say without doing a test fit, and even if it does, the door may not shut properly.
Would a canopy from a 98 dodge ram 1500 short bed fit on a 2004 dodge ram 1500 short bed?
The Dodge Ram changed in 2002, but honestly, I never tried to fit one of the 94-01 Ram shells to that one, so I'm really not sure. I know that on the new Rams, the measurement of the width of the bed in the front compared to the rear are very different. Of course, the Ram changed again in 2009, and I KNOW it wouldn't fit on that, which are the brand new ones. I would take some measurements of the front and the rear of the bed width, and maybe the height of the cab. It might fit, I'm not sure. Sorry I couldn't be more help with that. Remember too it depends on the shell. If you're trying to fit something like a GemTop Workmaster, Tradesman or ARE commercial shell, those have flat rails and have a better chance of fitting. Molded fiberglass is different.
Hello Tom , THANK YOU for writing a great and informative piece! I am searching for a shell for my 1998 Chevy and this is perfect! Appreciate your knowledge and time.
I'm working on a comprehensive used shell guide given the number of questions I have had on the subject, look for it soon.
Wished I lived in Santa Clara. Anyway, I have a '99 tacoma 2wd reg bed. We bought a used canopy and the door won't open unless I move it farther down the bed. Then it leaks through the bed. The seller said we could just add some new seals and it would work. Alas. So, if we buy a new bed, snugtop seems the place you recommend. Would their UT Pro work on our truck?
SnugTop should definitely have a UT Pro for that truck, you should also look into a company called Access Mfg. -if it is available where you live. They make the Tradesman, it would probably be cheaper than the UT Pro, and literally everything is an option so you can have it made anyway you want. Access use to be SixPac-the same guy still owns it. I believe that company is out of Winters CA. Keep in mind too that the commercial-type shells that SnugTop and Leer offer may be farmed out to another manufacturer, meaning SnugTop isn't actually making it, I could be wrong, but I know that Leer use to do that.
I have a 1999 superduty short bed, would a SnugTop from a 2011 superduty fit mine? I worry about the step ladder on the newer models creating a gap on my truck.
@Greg, well, it should fit. Will there be a gap on the tailgate? Yes, for sure. If you're getting a good deal on it, something simple you could do to fill in the gap would be to get some extra foam tape, you can get this at just about any hardware store or camper shell dealer, and slap that on the edge of the door where it would rest on the gate to close the gap. I have seen people modify much worse, but your concerns are valid, modifications or not, the seal will never be that great. You can also call SnugTop and find out if you can replace the newer door with an older style part, just explain what you're trying to accomplish, I'm sure the mold of the shell itself is the same. If it's an all-glass door(no aluminum frame) it will be expensive. There should be a fair amount of used tops out there for that truck.
I own a 2011 gmc sierra long bed regular cab, any chance a late model ford, dodge or even foreign cap would work. there's an a.r.e. Mc with the hatch that I want but its on a ford fx4. Any help on crossovers would be great because craigslist is loaded with long beds not for gm. Thanks for the article.
@Kevin, with the new trucks, there really isn't much that crosses over, if you know what I mean. The shell on the Ford will likely be too wide for your truck, the length will also be off. The other part of the problem is that the GM trucks are now the only ones that do not have factory plastic bed rails(except the duallies), so most fiberglass tops made for those trucks with the plastic rails will wrap over those rails for a nice fit, that in itself means that Ford shell will not sit on your truck bed properly. If you can find a nice used commercial shell-has flat rails-that was on a classic body Chevy/GM, that might work-the classic body beds are just a hare longer and I think wider than the new trucks. Hope this helps.
Thanks, not the news I wanted to hear but it does help.any chance aftermarket rail caps would help.
@Kevin -Not really, the fiberglass rails on a shell built specific for a newer Ford bed mold over the rail, so if the bed is not contoured to fit that, they will either stick out, or just not sit on the bed at all. If you were to look at the rails of a new F150 with the bed caps removed, it would make more sense. They aren't just stuck on there, the bed itself has an indentation to compensate for the thickness of the plastic, so when you look down the side, the plastic is actually flush with the bed. Sadly, the new Dodge, Tundra, Titan, F150 and Superduty's are all built this way.
Thanks, I might just go with a soft top cap.but all in all you have been a great help. Enjoy your easter weekend.
@Kevin, your welcome, it's always harder finding stuff for long beds for some reason, especially with newer trucks. It's not uncommon now to hear new truck owners, as in people who have never owned a truck, refer to their 6.5 foot bed pickup as a long bed because of all the crew cabs now that have 5.5 foot beds, but an 8 foot bed is really a long bed. Good luck!
Hey Tom, nice article, thanks.
You mention about Chevey beds being the same from 2000 - 2006. I am not sure that is correct. My 2003 has a fairly good sized plastic topper on top of the tailgate that makes the need for the bottom of the rear window skirt to come out and around that plastic. Where a 2001 does not have that and that bottom skirt is just straight.
Been trying to find a used shell for the 2003 extended cab...
@Keith, yeah, you just have to take that piece off the tailgate, most shell doors won't even compensate for that, it just has to be removed. The GMC trucks don't have them. Wade, or is it Westin, makes a flat replacement piece that just sticks on and covers up the holes on the front of the gate where it comes off, any accessory shop should sell those. Your bed is fairly common, like I mentioned, 2000 to 06 will fit, as long as you have the right bed length.
Hey Tom, thanks for the quick reply!
Once again, great article. Look forward to seeing your used buying guide.
Hey Tom - this is great, thanks so much!
I just bought a 2000 Nissan Frontier to take overseas for work (it is a King Cab, XE - i *think* it has normal length 6.5 ft bed - it's definitely not a 4 door crew cab with a short bed). I bought used/old intentionally - anything too shiny/new will get you carjacked where I am going. I am now hearing I need a cap, mostly to prevent people from jumping in the back and expecting a free ride.
Do you know what used caps I should be searching for? The color, aluminum/fiberglass/even plastic doesn't matter too much to me, as long as it is not a tonneau cover (apparently people will still hop on the flat covers). I was not expecting to have to buy anything else but the darn truck, so price is the most important thing. Well, price and timing, since I am leaving in about a month.
What would you recommend I look for, and where should I look? Thanks SO much for any advice you can give.
@Meg, for a used top, you need something made for a Nissan KC-only one bed length for that, your 6.5 foot calculation sounds correct, but you need one made for a 1998 to 2000, even one for a crew cab with the longer bed will work, or even standard cab, and technically speaking, a used top for a 2001 to 2004 Nissan is the same, except for the back door. In 2001, Nissan put this big logo on the top of the tailgate that sticks out, so a shell for a 2001 to 04 will compensate for that. What that means is it will fit your bed, but you will have a bit of a gap where the bottom of the door meets the tailgate. This is bad if you're going somewhere that rains a lot. The best place to look is on Craig's List in the auto parts section, type in 'shell' as a search item. Those trucks are fairly common. If someone tells you that their used shell was on a 'hardbody' Nissan, that is the 1986.5 to 1997 version of your truck, just remember that those truck beds were about 2.5 inches shorter than your bed, width is the same, so they might fit, but the door won't shut right, and if you need security, that type of fit won't work at all.
Thanks so much Tom - for the speedy reply especially!!
Tom, I have a 2002 Z-71 with a composite bed. Would the same top fit my truck as a normal short bed? Also, what mounting options are available for composite beds since there are no rails to accommodate clamps?
I would rather not drill and bolt to the top of my bed because I want to keep the top easily removable.
Great info, thanks for the article.
@Scott, I don't know what you mean by a composite bed. Z-71, like a Chevy/GM truck? Those don't have composite beds, as far as I know, but you say no rails to accommodate clamps, so is it a stepside bed? If you are talking about a stepside bed, honestly, for a classic body truck, I only ever dealt with one for a shell, and he had a Snugtop. They just aren't that common, in northern CA especially. I remember them more on the 1988-98 years, but you will need something specific and I cannot remember at all how it mounted. Sorry I couldn't help more.
My Z-71 is a Chevrolet ext. cab short bed. The bed is made of a weird composite and the outer quarter panels and tail gate are fiberglass...the owner said it was to help with towing. It is a factory set-up because I had to replace the tail gate straps and the dealership said they were different than a regular bed.
The inside of the bed runs straight up and turns 90 degrees out for the area where the camper top would rest...nothing to clamp to. Naturally I would be the one to find a one-of-a-kind rig that nothing works on.
I appreciate your quick response.
That's odd, I've never heard of that, almost sounds like a pre-runner bed, sometimes those are made of lighter weight materials, never heard of that being a factory set up though, even the Ford Raptor is still a standard steel bed. I know the dualie beds have fiberglass fender wells - on the outside. Well, you might want to try having something custom made, I know Access Mfg. will make just about anything, have no idea how it would mount though.
OK, thanks for your help.
i am looking for a used topper for a 2001 Tacoma 2dr with a six foot bed. can you let me know what toppers are compatible with this? i have been searching and cannot find any listing using just this information.
@Del, you should be able to find something, what you need (specifically, for a perfect fit) is a shell made for a 1995.5(Tacoma was introduced mid-year) to 2004. You said 2-door, so I'm assuming that it's a standard cab, meaning no extra back seat. There is a difference with shells made for standard cabs and extended cabs for that model Tacoma. A shell for an extended cab wall have more of an angle to the front of it which could rub on the cab's roofline on a standard cab. You can also technically put a shell on it from an older SR5 type Toyota, it will fit the bed dimensions, it just sits lower because the newer Tacomas have higher rooflines. Those years go all the way back to at least 1989, not a perfect fit, but they will fit. Hope this helps.
that is what i needed to know thanks very much
Tom, I have a 2006 Toyota Tacoma Pre Runner Double Cab 2 WD, short bed. I race A Stock Runabout and my dad is building me an A Stock Hydroplane to race as well. I am looking to buy a new top to haul the hydro and putting something like the Thule Tracker II on top. Considering Leer, Snug Top and Century. The boat will weigh about 100 lbs. What would you suggest would be the best top to haul the hydro, we will pull a small box trailer with the runabout on top of it. Reading your hub have some concerns about weight on top, back window breakage and locks. Thanks!
@Sherri36R Century and Leer are essentially the same, and the roofs of those tops are basically constructed of a layer of fiberglass, cardboard, and another layer of fiberglass. Will they handle 100lbs? Yes, but if you want the piece of mind to know the roof of the top is thicker, a SnugTop uses a honeycomb construction between the layers of fiberglass, so it would hands down be a better choice for mounting anything of weight on the roof. If you do a fair amount of rough road driving-doesn't have to be 'off-road' per se, but lots of bumps and washboarded out dirt roads, I would highly recommend SnugTop's off-road package. They make the roof twice as thick, and reinforce all the corners to handle bed flexing, and trust me, beds on trucks flex a lot more than you think. Flexing can cause window seals to literally squeeze out of the frames over time, doors can shatter, etc. Think about how much of that type of driving you do if you want to go with extra reinforcement, otherwise, a standard SnugTop is the way to go.
Thanks Tom, will do a deep dive into the Snug Top's!
Tom, I have an 06 standard cab f150 with a long bed and I am wondering if a canopy from an f250 long bed would fit? I am not picky on the style of canopy as long as it looks good. There are not a lot of long bed f150s and I dont want to pay more because it isnt as common!
Thanks!
@Mike, well I just published my used buying guide for tops. Just an FYI. No, it won't fit, problem is that a Superduty bed is at least an inch longer, and and the front width is about 3 inches wider than an F150, not to mention that most tops for both of those trucks are made to wrap over the plastic caps, so they really need to be on the same beds. I know they aren't common, you might get lucky and call around to see if a shop has one they just want to get rid of, like a closeout shell or something.
I figured as much! I appreciate you quick response though! I will start calling around and seeing what I can find! Would you happen to know what would be the best brand for it? I am sure that it is not that important but I know nothing about canopies. Thanks again and enjoy the rest of your day!
It's all subjective really, I think SnugTop is well-made and uses better parts, but if you're on a budget, a Century or Leer are just fine. With certain trucks, specific tops look better, which is why I recommend people take notice of one they see on the road they like.
Hey Tom ! I have a 2002 Tacoma Regular cab. getting a used camper top to fit is like looking for the veritable needle in the haystack. Do you know if there are any models available or is the tacoma a specific size?
@miles, I did in fact write a whole Hub on used top compatibility a couple weeks ago, but I'll answer your question anyway :) That body style came out in 1995.5(mid year truck), and stayed that way until 2004. You DO need a shell meant for a standard cab as one for an extended cab will angle forward and likely rub on the top of your cab. Now, you can fit a shell from an older SR5 type Toyota on there(date back to 1989), but the height of the shell will not match up to the height of the cab, but it should fit the bed dimensions, basically, your truck is a little over an inch wider than the older Toyotas-pre-Tacoma bed. The length is the same though. Hope this helps!-and check out my other Hub :)
Thanks for this article and the writeup about compatibility - very useful.
So, I've found a used shell for my truck (amazingly) - it's a 98 Ford sCab Flareside.
The shell is white, the truck is red, so I'm trying to get a ballpark figure on having it painted - any ideas?
@Mike, I have no idea where you live-that might matter-but where I live in Nor. CA bay area, I think, not sure, but I think a body shop will charge you like $400. I haven't looked into that in a while, so that may have changed.
Tom, I have a 2004 Nissan Titan LE V8 with a crew cab. I ran across an Snug top cover that the seller says came of a Dodge dakokta. The messurements are 67"x82". Thius seems to be a clos size that my bed is? Will this fit before I drive down and look at it?
@ Serg When you say 'cover' are you talking about a hard tonneau cover? Like a Snuglid? If you are, I really don't think that's going to work, remember that a lid needs to go up and down like a trunk, it's not like a shell where you only need to worry about the back door. The hardware for the lids are also very specific, in the case of your Titan, you need the frame rails of the lid to mount in those tracks-maybe, only you will know that if your bed has those tracks in it, not all Titans have those. Then there's also the bulging Nissan logo on your tailgate, a lid needs to mold around it. Honestly, I wouldn't bother. If you are in fact talking about a hard tonneau and you can't find anything used, check out the Undercover-they're lightweight, secure, reasonable in price, they fit good, and they have virtually no problems. Just remember if you do go the route of an Undercover, make sure to find out if you need the special track hardware kit, that sometimes gets overlooked.
I have a 08 nissan titan with a 8' bed. Will a LEER camper, for a long bed truck. Previously on a Ford F250 long bed fit on it?
@John, that's a tough one, the Titan long bed is kind of rare, but I know it exists, just don't know that many manufacturers made anything for them, so having said that, will the shell from an F250 work, are we talking Superduty longbed? Odds are, that shell will be too long for the Titan bed, which should be slightly less than 8 feet long. You can measure your bed, but a Superduty longbed is around 100 inches long, and 75 inches wide in the front, 70 inches wide in the back. Compare that to whatever the dimensions are on your Titan.
I want to buy a Century shell with serial number 1327182. Can you tell me what vehicles this will fit and what model it is? It was on an 07 Silverado and I want to put it on a 2010 Sierra.
@ Jstay If you call Century, they can tell you exactly what make and model the shell was made for when you give them that serial number, I personally don't have access to that and although Century makes it difficult to just call them-a lot of manufacturers leave their direct lines off their sites for some reason-you can call them at: 574-264-7528. I still have some old trade magazines with that contact info in it :)
Thanks Tom....appreciate it!!!!
LOL Tom, I guess the word is out. That number is, " No longer in service or has been disconnected." I had called two of the dealerships closest to me but no answer. Oh well, we'll just keep tryin....Thanks again!
Humm, I planned to stop by my buddies shop later, maybe he has a more current number. Remember that Century is part of the Truck Accessories Group-aka TAG in the industry. They own quite a few big accessory vendors, including Leer. Try to find a Leer dealer, they may be able to get a hold of Century, otherwise, I'll post another comment if I can get a more current number.
I have a 2004 nissan titan and I found a use snugtop XV for sale at $700 for my truck is that a fair deal? it seems to be in good condition with keys.Thank you
@ JJ -yeah, that's pretty good, unless it has a broken door or something, otherwise, yes, that's a good deal. New, those tops will cost around $2,300, and that's before you add tax, so if there are no broken parts and you can get it for under $1,000-great deal.
I have a Covermaster top on a 2001 Silverado 2500HD LE,6.5 ft bed with a broken the rear slider window. Covermaster is out of Business now. It would seem that the manufacturers must have bought their glass panels from a vendor. Any suggestions how to find a vendor to order a replacement frame and glass? When I broke the window on the other side, I had to replace the whole frame and glass.
@Gary -I seem to remember that most of the shell manufacturers used glass from a company called Creation. I know they are still around. I'm not familiar with that manufacturer. You are correct that most of the time you need to replace the whole frame and glass-they go together. I know that Snugtop actually puts part numbers on silver tape on the window frames to make getting parts easier. Wish I could help more.
I need a used shell for a 2001 Dakota, extended cab. I believe the bed length is 6.5' Will any 77 inch shell fit?
Tom, I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Long Bed Quad Cab. What model years or other makes are compatible with this bed? Thanks.
@letsjet Your Dakota should be around 81 inches long, and 63 inches wide. It's kind of unique as a Dakota is technically a mid-size bed.
@Matt D You need to find something for a 2002 to 2008 Ram. What's unique about that bed is the extreme bow to the top of the front wall behind the cab.
I would post a link to my other hub I wrote that details all this info but the site won't let me.
Cal 3 years ago
I HAVE A 1995 MITSUBISHI PICKUP TRUCK, LESS THAN 51,000 MILES DRIVEN WITH A LEER TOP, FIXED FRONT & SIDE WINDOWS AND A LIFT REAR DOOR. THIS DOOR'S GLASS HAS BROKEN; I MADE A MISTAKE OF REPLACING THE GLASS WITH PLASTIC (CHEAPER), NOW THE PLASTIC IS DISINTEGRATING. I CAN'T FIND A USED DOOR WITH GLASS; A NEW DOOR FROM LEER COSTS $599.00!!!. COULD'NT AFFORD THIS; WHO CAN SUPPLY ME WITH A USED GLASS DOOR; MY TOP IS A MODEL 122 (AS SEEN FROM THE LEER CATALOG OF TOPS). WOULD APPRECIATE SOMEONE'S HELP FOR ME TO OBTAIN A USED MODEL 122 REAR GLASS DOOR.